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Post by pkrboo on May 16, 2018 18:50:43 GMT
This post has me thinking if my servo is on its way out/ fooled.
When at a stop, at idle the revs rise if i pump the brake pedal ( did it on the type 4 engine too)
I also find I need to push twice on the pedal before they feel like they are actually working properly. 1 press is ok but two makes them better. Brakes have been bled all round, multiple times.
Is there any way to test the vacuum on these?
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Post by Zed on May 16, 2018 19:43:28 GMT
Servo test.
Pump brakes a couple of times and keep pressure on while you start the engine. The pedal should drop.
But you still could have a vacuum hose leak.
Generally if you have to pump brakes to build up to where you think the pedal should be, the rears need adjusting up. If your handbrake is set before your shoes are set you can have this problem yet the shoes won't adjust. Answer is slack off hbrake cables, adjust shoes then adjust cables.
New engine ok?
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Post by pkrboo on May 16, 2018 19:52:01 GMT
Servo test. Pump brakes a couple of times and keep pressure on while you start the engine. The pedal should drop. But you still could have a vacuum hose leak. Generally if you have to pump brakes to build up to where you think the pedal should be, the rears need adjusting up. If your handbrake is set before your shoes are set you can have this problem yet the shoes won't adjust. Answer is slack off hbrake cables, adjust shoes then adjust cables. New engine ok? Hmmm better do some more fiddling with the brakes then. Pedal goes down when I start the engine. So that's good. But the idle rising as i pump is the thing that gets me. New engine is awesome, loads and loads and loads of torque
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Post by Dicky on May 16, 2018 22:10:38 GMT
Servo test. Pump brakes a couple of times and keep pressure on while you start the engine. The pedal should drop. But you still could have a vacuum hose leak. Generally if you have to pump brakes to build up to where you think the pedal should be, the rears need adjusting up. If your handbrake is set before your shoes are set you can have this problem yet the shoes won't adjust. Answer is slack off hbrake cables, adjust shoes then adjust cables. New engine ok? Hmmm better do some more fiddling with the brakes then. Pedal goes down when I start the engine. So that's good. But the idle rising as i pump is the thing that gets me. New engine is awesome, loads and loads and loads of torque If im honest i didnt really think it was the servo. I thought possibly lack of vacuum due to only taking it off one cylinder effectively. It was also nagging at me that it would be the master cylinder as brakes were fine but faded so first dab on the peadl was fine but then more pressure needed to be put on the pedal to actually make it stop ( or thats how it felt) last straw was it heaving to the right under heavy braking at speed! Not good, not good at all so decided to have a good fettle. GSF had a 57% off weekend last bank holiday so given that a servo is around a hundred or so normally it was bargain time. Decided to make that my first job before doing any other work and bingo, instant massive improvement and oddly no slewing to the right at speed! Wouldnt have thought that would have been a servo issue to be hones and not sure ive worked out how or why but it doesnt do it anymore! Rest of jobs were overdue replacements. Shame about the hubs but it didnt occur to me that i wasnt getting a good zfixing on the studs really but will be mindful of that and check. Worst case is swap em or put standard wheels back on.
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Post by Dicky on May 19, 2018 23:14:02 GMT
drums that came off were around 3mm thick around the hub. ones I fitter were just over 7 mm. doesn't sound a lot does it! also single bolt rather than the two locating bolts (the 7mm ones) Exactly. With stock wheels and studs you loose 1/3 of the thread. If you have alloys and funky capped nuts at least you won't see it and worry your wheels will fly off. You need all the thread to get the torque without risking stripping them. I think it's arse that suppliers don't know what they're selling. Your originals at 2-3mm are correct. Put my steels on. Job jobbed. Obviously a couple of turns out from where they should be but much better than the alloys (6 full turns to tight!) Ive noticed a bit of pulsing on peddal. Never noticed that before. Single manifold take off to dells or ....? Ideas on a postcard!
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Post by volkswombat on May 20, 2018 7:50:35 GMT
Shoes not seated/adjusted right.
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Post by volkswombat on May 20, 2018 7:50:53 GMT
Brake. Not feet.
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Post by Zed on May 20, 2018 7:54:56 GMT
Pulsing pedal - drums not round.
M14x1.5. a normal nut is as thick as the thread so m14 would be 14mm thick. Divide by pitch so 14/1.5 is approx 10 threads. If you now have 6 turns you've lost 4. Almost down to half your threads.
Personally I'd have a complainy moment with the supplier and the drums out of round would seal that. If the pulsing pedal height changes as you drive they're both out of round, sometimes lining up to make it the worst. If it's constant then it's one squiffy drum. It won't bed in over time.
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Post by pkrboo on May 20, 2018 16:40:54 GMT
Exactly. With stock wheels and studs you loose 1/3 of the thread. If you have alloys and funky capped nuts at least you won't see it and worry your wheels will fly off. You need all the thread to get the torque without risking stripping them. I think it's arse that suppliers don't know what they're selling. Your originals at 2-3mm are correct. Put my steels on. Job jobbed. Obviously a couple of turns out from where they should be but much better than the alloys (6 full turns to tight!) Ive noticed a bit of pulsing on peddal. Never noticed that before. Single manifold take off to dells or ....? Ideas on a postcard! Pulsing pedal, nuts too tight and deforming the drum. Loosen them off and toque them to correct spec!!
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Post by Zed on May 21, 2018 9:17:15 GMT
You can't bend the drum with stock wheels.If they bend with alloys you need a spacer. It's imperative that the wheel bolts hard to the drum or it'll fall off. Sorry Matt, but Loosening the nuts is foolish idea!
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Post by sANDYbAY on May 21, 2018 11:22:06 GMT
To be fair he did say loosen them off and then retorque them to the correct figure. 80-90 ft/lbs.
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Post by Zed on May 21, 2018 12:17:01 GMT
To be fair he did say loosen them off and then retorque them to the correct figure. 80-90 ft/lbs. If the drums bends because the wheel nuts are tightened, there must be a gap between the wheel and drum where the studs pass through the wheels. There shouldn't be or the drums will bend. Some alloys need spacers because of this, stock wheels don't. If there's a gap, the correct torque will bend the drum anyway. The gap is the problem. đź‘Ť Also from experience, once bent the drum won't spring back to shape.
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Post by pkrboo on May 21, 2018 20:30:01 GMT
You can't bend the drum with stock wheels.If they bend with alloys you need a spacer. It's imperative that the wheel bolts hard to the drum or it'll fall off. Sorry Matt, but Loosening the nuts is foolish idea! I did say Loosen and retighten to correct torque!!
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Post by Dicky on May 21, 2018 22:24:41 GMT
Perhaps loosening and retighten to correct torque would do it. .... now if only i hada torque wrench that did 90lbs id be larfing!
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Post by VW Toast on May 22, 2018 6:43:17 GMT
Glad I havn't got a servo
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