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Post by Dicky on May 11, 2018 9:42:14 GMT
if anyone has fitted one then did you fit the plate that sandwiches between the servo and the beam bracket. Im minded to not do so as i dont fancy clearancing the hole to make it fit flush. Thats the shiny plate with all the holes in.... the one you use as a template for the stud fixings!
That better steve? !!!!
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Post by Zed on May 11, 2018 10:11:52 GMT
You would at least get an experienced answer here, those that know on tlb can't be arsed to explain leaving those that don't have any experience filling the gaps with dodgy read and half remembered info from the internet. Threads there can have pages of advice, none of it pertinent to the question asked. Lets see how long it is before someone on there tells you that the 4 studs won't fit your beam plate. Doh!
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Post by Zed on May 11, 2018 10:18:49 GMT
Generally though, the plate is not a template, it's part of the servo and holds the bellows in place. ๐ IIRC, pretty well everything that will come off the servo can be transferred to the brazzy one which avoids opening up the big hole and avoids fitting a new longer vacuum hose. The vac fitting in the brazzy is also a one way valve but as you already have one you can use your old fitting and save redoing the vac pipe. See? Saved you an hour or two under the van. I hate "under the van".
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Post by VW Toast on May 11, 2018 12:38:46 GMT
Generally though, the plate is not a template, it's part of the servo and holds the bellows in place. ๐ IIRC, pretty well everything that will come off the servo can be transferred to the brazzy one which avoids opening up the big hole and avoids fitting a new longer vacuum hose. The vac fitting in the brazzy is also a one way valve but as you already have one you can use your old fitting and save redoing the vac pipe. See? Saved you an hour or two under the van. I hate "under the van". I can't get "under the van"
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Post by Woody on May 11, 2018 14:58:33 GMT
You would at least get an experienced answer here, those that know on tlb can't be arsed to explain leaving those that don't have any experience filling the gaps with dodgy read and half remembered info from the internet. Threads there can have pages of advice, none of it pertinent to the question asked. Lets see how long it is before someone on there tells you that the 4 studs won't fit your beam plate. Doh! Or he could if wanted get 3 pages of toilet humour just get to likes and perceived influence
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Post by rickyrooo1 on May 11, 2018 15:53:53 GMT
You would at least get an experienced answer here, those that know on tlb can't be arsed to explain leaving those that don't have any experience filling the gaps with dodgy read and half remembered info from the internet. Threads there can have pages of advice, none of it pertinent to the question asked. Lets see how long it is before someone on there tells you that the 4 studs won't fit your beam plate. Doh! Or he could if wanted get 3 pages of toilet humour just get likes and perceived influence That worked for me for 5 years
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Post by pkrboo on May 12, 2018 6:39:26 GMT
Generally though, the plate is not a template, it's part of the servo and holds the bellows in place. ๐ IIRC, pretty well everything that will come off the servo can be transferred to the brazzy one which avoids opening up the big hole and avoids fitting a new longer vacuum hose. The vac fitting in the brazzy is also a one way valve but as you already have one you can use your old fitting and save redoing the vac pipe. See? Saved you an hour or two under the van. I hate "under the van". So it basically bolts straight on Steve? Just move everything over from the original?
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Post by Zed on May 12, 2018 8:24:28 GMT
Generally though, the plate is not a template, it's part of the servo and holds the bellows in place. ๐ IIRC, pretty well everything that will come off the servo can be transferred to the brazzy one which avoids opening up the big hole and avoids fitting a new longer vacuum hose. The vac fitting in the brazzy is also a one way valve but as you already have one you can use your old fitting and save redoing the vac pipe. See? Saved you an hour or two under the van. I hate "under the van". So it basically bolts straight on Steve? Just move everything over from the original? Apart from the 4 studs not lining up. It's now 5 or more years since I did this, probably 10! Pretty sure that's right though. ๐
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Post by Zed on May 12, 2018 8:44:00 GMT
Dicky says "Rear right locks first if i jump on the brakes. Not sure why that would be the case but possibly irrelevant as they will be stripped and replaced in the morning." Hmm. Once you get them both locking up I would have a look at your bias thingy gadget because I believe the rears shouldn't lock at all.* *Unless you're on the MOT rollers where the bias jobby doesn't work.
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Post by Dicky on May 13, 2018 16:29:17 GMT
Dicky says "Rear right locks first if i jump on the brakes. Not sure why that would be the case but possibly irrelevant as they will be stripped and replaced in the morning." Hmm. Once you get them both locking up I would have a look at your bias thingy gadget because I believe the rears shouldn't lock at all.* *Unless you're on the MOT rollers where the bias jobby doesn't work. Well.... needed to see if my general braking issue was the servo so fitted it without the plate. Cut a bit off the plate and put it on the other side of the bracket. Havent done the vent pipe yet but improved braking no end. Replace all handbrake stuff on and new drums etc. Therein lies another story and some rookie mistakes but all sorted now. Still locks on rear right but stops in a straight line so the other side cant be far behind! Not sure why it would do this to be honest. Fl xible hoses, brake bias valve stuck. Not sure what to do if its the latter i believe they are an interesting contraption. Ta for advice and whatnot! Any further thoughts on the locking issue. Oh yeh. New drums are thicker than my old ones and some slight rubbage on sidewalls of tyre. Bugger. (Empis)
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Post by Zed on May 13, 2018 19:53:41 GMT
Thicker where the wheel studs go through? I think that makes it a T25 drum. Your studs will now be too short. Been there arguing with Heritage who eventually clicked that T2 drums are thinner and found some when I said I'd keep the drums if they sent me a free set of longer studs. The ones they sent were oval making the pedal pulse so they went back as well. When it came to my bus I kept the worn drums to avoid the bloody circus.
You can replace your compensator doodah with a looped flexi while you restore it. The two I've had apart were gummed up. T2D would add it to their massive collection of parts gained from customers buses and leave you with a flexi permanently, or they did to one of my mates anyway. Not recommended, it's an expensive part and isn't there just for the hell of it.
When mine was gummed up and one rear locked in the rain I was close to broad siding an oncoming fire engine. The other rear was contaminated with leaking brake fluid. T'was very scary, I had to stop for several ciggies before carrying on slowly home. Since then, every now and again I find a straight quiet road in the rain and try them.
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Post by pkrboo on May 13, 2018 20:32:16 GMT
Brake bias valve is a big ball bearing in a chamber in an angle so when you brake hard it rolls forward and slows supply to rear I think(might be the other way round.
Not much to it at all
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Post by Zed on May 13, 2018 20:42:36 GMT
Brake bias valve is a big ball bearing in a chamber in an angle so when you brake hard it rolls forward and slows supply to rear I think(might be the other way round. Not much to it at all It's full of tiddly bits and springs too, I think it's quite a delicate device when not full up with gunk.
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Post by volkswombat on May 13, 2018 20:48:26 GMT
Brake bias valve is a big ball bearing in a chamber in an angle so when you brake hard it rolls forward and slows supply to rear I think(might be the other way round. Not much to it at all I just removed mine while I do other stuff, the fluid that came out was nice n clean so I was advised not to strip it. Dunno if that's correct or not! Mind you I've enough to do without stripping another part !
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Post by pkrboo on May 13, 2018 20:53:29 GMT
Brake bias valve is a big ball bearing in a chamber in an angle so when you brake hard it rolls forward and slows supply to rear I think(might be the other way round. Not much to it at all It's full of tiddly bits and springs too, I think it's quite a delicate device when not full up with gunk. I'll have to find my pics, pretty sure it's only. A ball bearing and 1 spring. Not fiddly as I remember
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