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Post by paulcalf on Jul 16, 2017 21:34:18 GMT
What i think i've learned
Don't buy 'off the shelf' engines
Don't reuse an old case - if spending loads on have it machined, as it may have a crack in it!
Velocity stacks may prevent a broken air filter stud dropping into your engine
Removing an engine (to fix the damaged caused by a broken stud) and changing various other things, can lead to issues you didn't have before
Keep everything you remove from your bus
Driving a 1600 is no fun if you've only ever driven bigger cc air cooled engines.
Don't tempt fate
Give your bus some love and respect when it safely returns you home, especially after a long trip
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Post by Zed on Jul 16, 2017 21:36:38 GMT
What i think i've learned Don't buy 'off the shelf' engines Don't reuse an old case - if spending loads on have it machined, as it may have a crack in it! Velocity stacks may prevent a broken air filter stud dropping into your engine Removing an engine (to fix the damaged caused by a broken stud) and changing various other things, can lead to issues you didn't have before Keep everything you remove from your bus Driving a 1600 is no fun if you've only ever driven bigger cc air cooled engines. Don't tempt fate Give your bus some love and respect when it safely returns you home, especially after a long trip What various other things did you change and what issues? |
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Post by paulcalf on Jul 16, 2017 22:45:47 GMT
What i think i've learned Don't buy 'off the shelf' engines Don't reuse an old case - if spending loads on have it machined, as it may have a crack in it! Velocity stacks may prevent a broken air filter stud dropping into your engine Removing an engine (to fix the damaged caused by a broken stud) and changing various other things, can lead to issues you didn't have before Keep everything you remove from your bus Driving a 1600 is no fun if you've only ever driven bigger cc air cooled engines. Don't tempt fate Give your bus some love and respect when it safely returns you home, especially after a long trip What various other things did you change and what issues? Whilst engine was out I asked for new fuel lines and breathers, which meant things got moved about. Hard fuel line behind fan. Coil moved from bracket on fan housing to behind distributor (leaving two holes into fan housing) Filter king moved from by leisure battery to nearer fuel pump. I asked them to fit the inline oil thermostat thingy They mended the 'minor' damage caused by the stud falling into cylinder 1. Fitted velocity stacks to carbs They also changed numerous oil seals, including oil cooler seals and decided to clean and paint the case. It used to have a tiny oil leak that just dribbled out from under the tin onto the case, now oil seems to be blowing up the front of the fan housing after motorway runs. I don't think it is a lot of oil, but worse than it used to be. When i first got it back the oil level seemed to be going up, so it went back to the builder and they changed the fuel pump and lifted the tin and ran the engine to inspect for oil leaks from cooler area, no leaks at all found. They saw a drop of oil coming from the coil, so that was changed. Oil changed. Drove it back home on motorway and oil up the fan housing again. Builder thought oil breather was a suspect, so a more local mechanic removed, cleaned and inspected it for leaks in case this was the cause of the oil on fan housing. It was fine. New exhaust header, oil and filter change, carb linkage adjusted The oil light has also come on at idle a few times eg when getting to the end of a motorway slip road. Light goes out when i rev it and pressure still normal when driving, but it never used to do this until the recent work. I've twice noticed a small amount of oil in the tin under the fan belt. This oil seems to be from behind the pulley, rather than making its way from the cooler area. Noticed after oil has just been changed and motorway journey. It still drives very well (which is the main thing) and has plenty of power, but it may have lost a bit of power or that may just be my imagination. So it seems to have oil leak(s) under pressure. There has always been a small crack in the case below the cooler, which was mended with an insert, but why would this have got worse with engine out (also told this looked fine and clean when engine out). So I'm keeping an eye on levels and need to monitor how much it actually loses over say 1000 miles. Perhaps the tiny leak is now just blowing up the fan housing, rather than how it used to be. Low pressure oil light coming on at idle is hopefully not serious. It was slightly lean at idle so idle screws have just been adjusted, but not done any long journeys since So issues could be something or could be nothing (as it still drives great), just seems that i've spent loads having unfortunate air filter stud in engine fixed and now it has 'problems' that it didn't have before. I wondered if adding the oil thermostat had some how altered the oil pressure until it fully opens at 80c, but i don't know enough about these things. I will probably also check the oil pressure springs and pistons My plan is to drive it, keeping an eye on oil level, make sure oil pressure is ok whilst moving, keep an eye on temperature and try not to worry! |
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Post by Zed on Jul 17, 2017 7:48:03 GMT
Blimey.
We should have whipped the head off at techenders, we couldn't have done any worse!
Is your oil temp more steady with the thermostat?
The thermostat, if if did raise pressure, would raise it between the pump and thermostat. The cooler is after the thermostat so if anything the pressure would be lower here, not higher. Building a monster on a faulty case?.. Well...I wouldn't, I'd have forked out £500 for a new strong, heavy ali case.
All things considered I wonder if you have a piston ring problem, possibly the piston that hit the stud has a distrorted crown and the top ring is tight when it's warmed up. That would allow blow-by and force oil out of the pully end and breather. So the question is - are you familiar with how much the breather used to chuff before the stud in cylinder escapade and how does that compare to present chuffing?
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Post by paulcalf on Jul 17, 2017 9:17:12 GMT
Blimey. We should have whipped the head off at techenders, we couldn't have done any worse! Is your oil temp more steady with the thermostat? The thermostat, if if did raise pressure, would raise it between the pump and thermostat. The cooler is after the thermostat so if anything the pressure would be lower here, not higher. Building a monster on a faulty case?.. Well...I wouldn't, I'd have forked out £500 for a new strong, heavy ali case. All things considered I wonder if you have a piston ring problem, possibly the piston that hit the stud has a distrorted crown and the top ring is tight when it's warmed up. That would allow blow-by and force oil out of the pully end and breather. So the question is - are you familiar with how much the breather used to chuff before the stud in cylinder escapade and how does that compare to present chuffing? We didn't know what the issue was at Eddies party and by techenders I was already booked into visit the engine builder. Oil temp was steady anyway, it probably 'warms up' to 80c slightly quicker now Ahh not thought about cooler location in relation to thermostat. When the monster engine was built in 2012 I didn't know there was a crack in the case. I took loads of old engine bits to the builder, he inspected them and told me what could be re used. Then he suggested a few different engine options and I went for the stroker (neither of us knowing of the crack under oil cooler area) Drove it away and v small oil leak, engine pulled following summer to fit new gearbox and he attempted to mend the case with an insert. So it is only in hindsight that i realised you shouldn't use a used case for a big cc engine. New T1 cases were more than £500 and the engine builder probably thought he was helping me save money be suggesting re using the case! Perhaps it is a piston ring problem, but that was meant to have been 'sorted' when the engine was pulled. Im not familiar with how much the breather used to chuff, compared to present. All i know is i never used to have oil up the fan housing and i do now. It still isn't a lot of oil Would testing compression on the relevant cylinder show if this was the problem area? Could i test it when cold and them when engine is warm? |
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Post by Zed on Jul 17, 2017 10:17:56 GMT
Compression test might show it up. A leakdown test certainly would but you need a garage to do this for you.
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Post by paulcalf on Jul 17, 2017 10:24:46 GMT
Compression test might show it up. A leakdown test certainly would but you need a garage to do this for you. I'll see if i can find somewhere to do it Until then i'm just going to keep driving the bus and keep an eye on it all |
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Post by Zed on Jul 17, 2017 10:28:16 GMT
Compression test might show it up. A leakdown test certainly would but you need a garage to do this for you. I'll see if i can find somewhere to do it Until then i'm just going to keep driving the bus and keep an eye on it all my big t1 chuffed to buggery and there was always a thin film of oil over everything. Funnily my present one has undetectable chuff and is dry as a bone in the engine compartment department. |
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Post by Zed on Jul 17, 2017 10:38:20 GMT
Oil temp was steady anyway, it probably 'warms up' to 80c slightly quicker now You won't notice in the summer, but in the winter my oil doesn't get hot enough without the stat controlling the flow to the cooler. I'm just about to atempt refitting mine. Hopefully I've fixed it's leak, if not I'll be stranded with cut pipes. |
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