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Post by Zed on Nov 21, 2016 17:05:39 GMT
Drawers are good, cupboards are bad. There's a top over the drawers too, but if I put that on I can't open them. I need to fit pop-out handles first but I don't have any yet.
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Post by Zed on Nov 21, 2016 17:08:11 GMT
Did I mention powder coating? Engine going together.
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Post by Zed on Nov 21, 2016 17:10:05 GMT
My bus engine history is 2.0L Type-4 1700 Type-4 1600T1 TP 1600 SP Then back the other way. 1955 T1 2020 T1 2417 Type-4
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Post by Zed on Nov 21, 2016 17:12:54 GMT
Head things for general interest. Make the holes bigger. These were 1700 heads. Adjust the chambers to unshroud valves, flow better and correct CR. Cut the valve seats to flow better with bigger valves. All done in here. Exhaust port - remove valve guides, remove most of guide boss in exhaust port leaving small divider to help split flow around the guide, refit guides less deep. And other stuff I can't remember. Inlet have quite a large 45 deg chamfer which was smoother away to make the whole inlet port with the valve seat work something like a venturi to speed up the flow. This also matched it to the inlet manifold. And other stuff! The inlet manifold rattled about on the studs a bit and because of the design didn't lend itself to be pinned, Rob sleeved it for the two long bolts.
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Post by Zed on Nov 21, 2016 17:16:37 GMT
Normally type-4 linkage kits are mounted so if you look in the engine hatch they are behind the carbs. If like me you don't have a top access hatch, that's awkward... Linkage sorted out so I can get at it to adjust. Seems to have worked out ok. The 2 plates were certainly easier to make than fitting a hatch. And I don't have to shift the bedding to get at the carbs. Win, win. I was particulary keen to do this as I have some bodgery on the carbs that lets me lock off the pesky rods, then set the throttle stops and balance separately at the carbs using fine theaded stop screws.
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Post by Zed on Nov 21, 2016 17:23:11 GMT
Interestingly, on another forum, someone called fish started a row with my engine builder. I'd forgotten about that.
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Post by Zed on Nov 21, 2016 17:23:33 GMT
We have music. I put the speakers where i hate them - in the bed board. lol I did ditch the the mounts that make them look 2x the diameter though. I bought some perforated steel the same as they use on the speakers, painted it black and sandwiched it in between a speaker mounting board and the bedboard after routing out a hole for the board. A bit of a palava but worth it in the end. During the process the router bit came loose and cut right though the board. :eek: That's why the tweeters ended up down there - I had to fill up the hole. lol
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Post by Zed on Nov 21, 2016 17:25:35 GMT
Ply edge trimmed.
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Post by Zed on Nov 21, 2016 17:27:44 GMT
Filled a few holes in the tin that I won't be needing. Made a mount for the oil pressure sender from the oil cooler bracket that won't fit. It's fed through a Volvo brake line. Not sure if it'll need bleeding to work, but probably not. Heat exchangers on, the alternator is centred on the belt and fitted. 32 vents fitted and up a jet size from the T1 to start with. Fuel lines started, waiting for a filter king regulator to turn up, I'd forgotten I'd left mine on the early when I sold it. Servo fittings fitted to the manifolds and connected up to the original T4 servo pipe for neatness, but with lengths of pipe not the hated elbows. Silencer won't fit - it fouls the filler pipe. Waiting to hear back from supplier.
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Post by Zed on Nov 21, 2016 17:31:12 GMT
For the servo I used a standard type-4 steel pipe connected to the manifolds.
Same on the other manifold. [ATTACH=full]36705[/ATTACH] Bugger, can't get the pic.
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Post by Zed on Nov 21, 2016 17:38:58 GMT
It's in. 19th December, I need to MOT it and go away for Christmas. From here on the pics are hosted somewhere else and I can't link to them at the mo. Heater control pods fitted Control wires fitted Concertina pipes fitted New fuel pump, filter, T to Eber, filter for eber blah fitted Wired up oil light, pressure and temp gauges, rev counter Wired up switch for stereo in the back. Installed sandwich plate and pipes to oil thermostat and on to cooler Remade linkage mounting plates longer - got it wrong first time Made and fitted caps to Heat exchanger inlets for aux fan. Extended accelerator cable Remade front part accelerator linkage to pull more cable for full throttle. Funnily the only time I ever actually put my foot hard down with the last engine was when I was demo / selling it coming off R-A-B in 2nd gear and it tried to go straight on. Fetched petrol and put in 2 gallons Filled up with oil Made end for alternator charge cable, connected all to starter Fitted 2x relays to power fuel pump only when starter cranking or alternator charging Fitted split charge relay and wiring Loads of other endlessF'ing smegma Removed spark plugs turned on ignition turned over for 20 seconds - light still on, but you never know your luck. I have a worry with oil cooler pipes full of air, don't want to start it then run for 30 seconds on air. Removed oil filter and positioned drip tray under. Turned over for 20 seconds - oil came out. Progress. Must be passing through sandwich plate and thermostat and back to sandwhich plate. Refit filter. Turn over more. Oil light still lit. Sender is on a length of brake pipe - could be the prob? Remove sender, organise starter wire to dab on the battery, oil comes out of the brake pipe, and air, like bleeding brakes or a bad case of morning after curry and Guiness. :thinking: More churning over - I know it has oil but the light still lit so no way am I starting it. :mad: :thinking: Fit poptop skylight while battery charges a bit. Couldn't do before I'd fitted the engine or it would have likely smashed on the low ceiling. Disconnect wires from sender, switch on ignition, light still lit. :thinking: Flash the headlights and it goes off. :oops: I had them switched round. Connect correctly, turn over and out with the oil light. Hooray! Looking back I heard the oil get round after the initial 20 seconds or so. Now just have to static time and turn the key, but I think I'll have dinner first, it's been an annoying few days/week.
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Post by Morkc68 on Nov 21, 2016 20:48:30 GMT
Glad you posted this up Zedster!
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Post by theBusmonkey on Nov 28, 2016 12:44:11 GMT
Filled a few holes in the tin that I won't be needing. Made a mount for the oil pressure sender from the oil cooler bracket that won't fit. It's fed through a Volvo brake line. Not sure if it'll need bleeding to work, but probably not. Heat exchangers on, the alternator is centred on the belt and fitted. 32 vents fitted and up a jet size from the T1 to start with. Fuel lines started, waiting for a filter king regulator to turn up, I'd forgotten I'd left mine on the early when I sold it. Servo fittings fitted to the manifolds and connected up to the original T4 servo pipe for neatness, but with lengths of pipe not the hated elbows. Silencer won't fit - it fouls the filler pipe. Waiting to hear back from supplier. Also glad you posted this up, it highlights i must fill in some holes in the tin where the egr stuff was
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Post by Zed on May 18, 2017 18:22:55 GMT
And here we are 17 months and 10,000 miles on. A couple of bits of paint went funny so I had them sorted for not much. The oil cooler, the standard one, leaked and was replaced. I thought the alternator was knackered. New battery, new alternator didn't fix, it was the powder coating blocking the earth path. The engine is groovy, I just checked the valve gaps for the first time and only one needed minor adjustment. The gearbox is jumping out of fourth from time to time, more on that when it's solved.
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Post by Zed on May 18, 2017 18:29:57 GMT
It's fucking filthy though, inside and out, used and not washed for over a year, inside is a tip run shed. I wouldn't camp in it.
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