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Post by Zed on Mar 24, 2018 21:31:31 GMT
And..... Just saw something about a good discount at jk this weekend so had another looksee At their new beams, but noticed they don't appear to have the arm thing with the bump stops on? That can't be right can it? They'll sell as little as possible to keep the headline price down. Either transfer your bits over or spend more money. I'd go for rust free import from someone reputable. I never has a problem with FBI. Though even fbi used to just dish them out spindle to spindle, now I expect they strip and sell in pieces but the beam price still rises. Last beam I got for myself was £80, times have changed, buy now or pay double next year! I once bought a pair of genuine front arches from jk for £50. It was buy one get one free! Those days are long gone.
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Post by volkswombat on Mar 24, 2018 21:57:40 GMT
And..... Just saw something about a good discount at jk this weekend so had another looksee At their new beams, but noticed they don't appear to have the arm thing with the bump stops on? That can't be right can it? They'll sell as little as possible to keep the headline price down. Either transfer your bits over or spend more money. I'd go for rust free import from someone reputable. I never has a problem with FBI. Though even fbi used to just dish them out spindle to spindle, now I expect they strip and sell in pieces but the beam price still rises. Last beam I got for myself was £80, times have changed, buy now or pay double next year! I once bought a pair of genuine front arches from jk for £50. It was buy one get one free! Those days are long gone. Yeah think I'm sorted with a second hand one now, just don't understand how the new one can have no bump stops? How can it still work properly,? Or am I being fick?!
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Post by popegregoryxi on Mar 24, 2018 23:52:53 GMT
So if I get a second hand rust free jobby, is it wise to replace needle bearings and steering pin and whatever else, or leave as is unless they appear really worn? Best to leave the needle bearings if they look ok, as they are a twat to get out, and are usually fine. I would be tempted to change the steering pin though. New beams don't generally have the bump stop sticky out bits cos they are for the cool kids that like to lower their bus with scant regard for safety innit.
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Post by popegregoryxi on Mar 24, 2018 23:56:28 GMT
And..... Just saw something about a good discount at jk this weekend so had another looksee At their new beams, but noticed they don't appear to have the arm thing with the bump stops on? That can't be right can it? They'll sell as little as possible to keep the headline price down. Either transfer your bits over or spend more money. I'd go for rust free import from someone reputable. I never has a problem with FBI. Though even fbi used to just dish them out spindle to spindle, now I expect they strip and sell in pieces but the beam price still rises. Last beam I got for myself was £80, times have changed, buy now or pay double next year! I once bought a pair of genuine front arches from jk for £50. It was buy one get one free! Those days are long gone. Feck that must have been a few years ago, was that from FBI or privately? Yes, they sell you a bare beam these days, everything else is available at extra cost.
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Post by Zed on Mar 25, 2018 7:33:43 GMT
More like a few decades ago. How time flies.
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Post by volkswombat on Mar 25, 2018 12:11:20 GMT
So if I get a second hand rust free jobby, is it wise to replace needle bearings and steering pin and whatever else, or leave as is unless they appear really worn? Best to leave the needle bearings if they look ok, as they are a twat to get out, and are usually fine. I would be tempted to change the steering pin though. New beams don't generally have the bump stop sticky out bits cos they are for the cool kids that like to lower their bus with scant regard for safety innit. This is even on the standard width, standard height, non adjustable beam though ? Seems stupid!
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Post by Zed on Mar 25, 2018 13:01:03 GMT
Best to leave the needle bearings if they look ok, as they are a twat to get out, and are usually fine. I would be tempted to change the steering pin though. New beams don't generally have the bump stop sticky out bits cos they are for the cool kids that like to lower their bus with scant regard for safety innit. This is even on the standard width, standard height, non adjustable beam though ? Seems stupid! But sound business because you'll be back for a heavy duty anti roll bar and stiffer shocks to stop it leaning round the corners. My first bus was all stock but missing the rubber stops. Braking late into a corner had the arms banging into the metal horn bits, so yes you do need bump stops on a stock camper and not just for bumps.
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Post by volkswombat on Mar 25, 2018 18:33:06 GMT
This is even on the standard width, standard height, non adjustable beam though ? Seems stupid! But sound business because you'll be back for a heavy duty anti roll bar and stiffer shocks to stop it leaning round the corners. My first bus was all stock but missing the rubber stops. Braking late into a corner had the arms banging into the metal horn bits, so yes you do need bump stops on a stock camper and not just for bumps. Madness! I'm not interested in lowering or anything. But as you mentioned hd anti roll bar, would an hd one be a worth while upgrade to a stock setup?
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Post by volkswombat on Mar 25, 2018 20:14:08 GMT
And hopefully final question... What year did beams change, as I believe early and late beams are different? Would a 72 beam fit my 79 van?
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Post by popegregoryxi on Mar 25, 2018 21:59:43 GMT
And hopefully final question... What year did beams change, as I believe early and late beams are different? Would a 72 beam fit my 79 van? Pretty sure it was only 68/69 beams that differ. Spindles changed a bit, but wont affect you as your existing spindles will fit.
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Post by Zed on Mar 26, 2018 7:34:42 GMT
And hopefully final question... What year did beams change, as I believe early and late beams are different? Would a 72 beam fit my 79 van? Pretty sure it was only 68/69 beams that differ. Spindles changed a bit, but wont affect you as your existing spindles will fit. I thought that, then recently I eas told it's 68-71 are different. One of the retailers (vwh?) has their beams listed like this. Which is right?
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Post by popegregoryxi on Mar 26, 2018 8:01:26 GMT
Interesting. I was told by fbi that 69 - 79 are all the same ... 🤔
Maybe it changed with the addition of disc brakes. I dare say a Google would offer more confusing info lol
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Post by chad on Mar 26, 2018 9:02:39 GMT
This is something I copied a few years ago - I think the source was the Earlybay forum:
Beam differences
68-69: early frame bolt pattern(same as 55-67 buses) 70: later frame bolt pattern not booster bracket 71-79: later bolt pattern with booster bracket
I have a diagram somewhere but can't find it at the moment.
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Post by chad on Mar 26, 2018 9:08:51 GMT
Here we go:
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Post by Zed on Mar 26, 2018 9:15:32 GMT
I think VWH have confusing listings, they don't attempt to describe the difference but list beams as 71-79. Must be the servo bracket. However, my bus is 74 and didn't have a servo or bracket so it's cobblers however you look at it.
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